Tuesday 26 August 2014

Beginner's guide to breadmaking


So, who's enjoying the new series of Bake Off? Me, me, me!  I don't know what's behind the success of this little series... is it the ding dong battle between Paul and Mary, where she always balances his fiercest criticism with some kind words? Is it the different characters featured, some of whom seem very unlikely bakers? Or is it just that we all love a good slice of cake?! Whatever the reason, The Bake Off seems to have gripped the nation.  And in honour of last week's episode, I thought I'd write a blog on bread.

Firstly, a disclaimer.  I'm certainly no expert on breadmaking, really I'm a beginner myself. I just thought I'd share some of the tips that have helped me to get started.  I've picked these up from 3 sources.  Firstly, Rachel (obviously!)  Secondly, Paul Hollywood's 'Bread' book which I had for my birthday last year.  This has some really good pictorial guides, and he also suggests a meal to make out of each bread... so it's a really useful cookbook.  I went to see Mr Hollywood at De Montfort Hall in May, and had a great evening.  At one point they asked for volunteers to bake on stage with him.  I put my hand up, and my Mum, sitting next to me, looked horrified. 

 "Oh Heidi, you wouldn't?!"

Oh I would, I'd have loved it! Unfortunately for me, but fortunately for my Mum's embarassment, I didn't get picked.

Thirdly, a couple of years ago I did a breadmaking course at 'Jacques Bakes Cakes' in Hinckley. Now, my previous experience of cookery lessons had been in school.  I had some really scary teachers, and as I'm not the most practical person I often found myself getting shouted at.  At 14 (when school cookery lessons finished) I'd decided I was a rubbish cook. I only really started to enjoy it when I was away at university, and had to fend for myself.  So it was with some trepidation that I walked into Annaliese Jacques' cookery school.  As it happened, she turned out to be the antithesis of the scary school cookery teacher, as you can see...

As you can imagine, Annaliese's lessons were a lot of fun! She was patient and encouraging, and I went home with a yeast loaf; a soda bread and a batch of bread rolls which I was very proud of! I can highly recommend Annaliese's classes.  She doesn't just teach breadmaking either... she does cupcakes; macaroons; sugarcraft; preserves and more.  Her website can be found at www.landgirlscookeryschool.co.uk (They've moved premises since I went, and changed the business name)  I think my dear husband would quite like to do a course after seeing that picture of Annaliese with her... ahem... baps!

Right, to the point.  This is how I'd make a basic loaf.  The quantities are Rachel's, but the method is a mixture of what I've picked up.  Here goes...

  1. In a measuring jug, mix 2 tsp sugar with 150mls (1/4 pint) warm water and some yeast - 2 1/2 tsp dried; 20g (2/3oz) fresh; or 1 1/2 x 7g sachets fast-acting.  Let it stand in a warm place for 5 minutes, or until frothy.  If using fast-acting yeast, there's no need to let the mixture stand.
  2. Place 750g (1lb 10oz) strong white flour into a bowl.  Paul says there is really no need to sift flour for breadmaking, as modern flours are of such good quality.  Add 2 tsp salt.  Then, rub in 40g (1 1/2oz) chilled butter, and rub in until it resembles fine breadcrumbs.  Alternatively, you can add 4 tbsp olive oil.  In this case, make a well in the centre of the flour and pour the oil in.  Then, pour in the yeast mixture.  Take about 275mls water, and gradually add it, to create a soft dough  (You may not need it all).  When mixing in the water, keep your fingers stiff and outstretched - like a claw.  You aren't kneading at this point, just combining the ingredients.  
  3. KNEADING Turn the dough out on to a lightly oiled or floured surface.  Just be careful if using flour, as too much will affect the recipe and your bread may not work!  I've gone wrong here in the past, so for that reason I prefer to use oil.  The dough will feel slightly sticky, but that's OK.  Stretch out the dough, fold it in to the centre and flatten it again, before turning.  Keep stretching; folding; flattening and turning for about 10 minutes.  You will feel the dough getting smoother and stretchier, 'like chewing gum' says Annaliese.  To test when you've kneaded enough, pull out a small piece of dough - it should stretch to at least 20cm without breaking. (Note that you can do all your kneading in a food processor fitted with a dough hook.  This should take about 5 minutes.  Be careful as it's easy to over-knead dough this way.  It's almost impossible when kneading by hand).
  4. RISING Now, place your dough into a large, lightly oiled bowl.  Cover with a clean tea towel or cling film.  This protects the dough from draughts, and stops a skin forming on it, which would slow the rise.  Don't worry about putting the dough in a warm place, room temperature is fine.  A very warm environment would create a fast rise, and you don't want that.  The slower the rise, the tastier your bread will be (We once tried to make a fast, 1 hour bread in our breadmaking machine.  It was only fit for the birds, and I don't think even they were too impressed!)  So, leave your bread for 1-3 hours.  During this time, the yeast will be feeding on nutrients in the flour and producing carbon dioxide, which makes the bread rise.  Magic! The dough will double, treble or even quadruple in size.  You will eventually see creases starting to form in the top, and you'll know it's about ready.  Don't leave it too much longer, or you'll have a bitter; over-fermented bread.
  5. KNOCKING BACK Turn the dough out, and then knock it down to release any air pockets.  (The idea of this is to create bread with a uniform texture).  Knead for 2-3 minutes, to get the yeast working again.  Then, fold the dough in on itself several times to create structure.  'Like folding paper' says Paul - the more times you fold it, the stronger it becomes.  Allow to rest for 10 minutes before shaping.
  6. SHAPING Divide the dough in half (Rachel's recipe creates 2 loaves).  Shape each loaf into an oval, about 23cm (9in) long, before placing into a lightly oiled 13 x 23cm (5 x 9in loaf tin). Try to keep the dough taut and even as you shape it, as this will help to create structure.  You could also shape the bread into rolls or a plaited loaf (haven't tried this yet, but I do intend to as part of the challenge!)  Now, place a roasting tin in to the bottom of your oven, and preheat to 220C/425F/GM 7.  Nearly there!
  7. PROVING This stage develops aeration and structure in your loaf.  Place the loaf tin inside a large plastic bag (I use a clean bin bag).  You need to form a sort of 'tent' over the loaf, so it has room to rise.  This stage should take about 30 minutes.  When the dough is fully proved, it will spring back slowly when pressed. 
  8. BAKING Place your loaf into the preheated oven, and as you do so pour about 1 litre of water into the roasting tray.  The steam this creates will help to give a crispy crust.  Bake for 30 - 35 minutes, turning the oven down to 200C/400F/GM 6 after 15 minutes.  The bread should be well risen, golden in colour and sound hollow when you tap the base.
  9. COOLING Turn out your loaf immediately, so that the base doesn't become soggy (Mr Hollywood and Ms Berry would not like!)  Allow to cool completely before eating.

And that's it!  I've discovered that bread making really isn't scary or complicated.  Yes it takes time, but most of that is waiting time.  It can be really therapeutic, and the results so much nicer than anything you'd get in the shops.

In another of Rachel's books (Everyday Kitchen) she suggests rising and proving bread in the fridge if you have time (you'll remember that a slow rise produces a better flavour) The rising takes 12-24 hours, and the proving up to 8 hours.  I'm thinking this could work well for me... I could make a batch of dough last thing at night, after the bairns are in bed.  Leave to rise until the following evening, then knock back; shape and prove.  The bread should be ready to bake the following morning.  I'll let you know what happens!

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