Staying with Leicestershire for now, and why not - when it has plenty of recipes to share?! Researching the area, I was struck by how many recipes have their roots in hunting. This might seem obvious to true locals, but I am not one. Now, I know that fox hunting is a very divisive issue - and I'm not here to give an opinion one way or the other. But is has certainly shaped Leicestershire - the red fox has become the symbol of Leicester City Football Club, Leicestershire County Cricket and Leicestershire Scouting. And hunting has given rise to some great local recipes.
Leicestershire is home to one of the world's oldest hunts, 'The Quorn'. It was founded in 1696 by Sir Thomas Boothby, and then handed on to Hugo Meynell after Boothby's death. Meynell is often called the 'father of fox hunting', due to his passion and dedication to the sport. The Quorn hunt continues to this day, with all its hounds being descended fron Boothby's, It meets on 4 days a week during the Autumn and Winter, and has up to 150 followers. More information can be found here https://quorn-hunt.co.uk/qhhistory.html. The Belvoir hunt (based at Belvoir Castle), Fernie Hunt, of Market Harborough and the Cottesmore Hunt, in neighbouring Rutland, are also long established in the area. I'm told that the Melton Carnegie Museum houses a very good exhibition about local hunt history. Unfortunately it's closed at the moment, but here are the details if you fancy a visit in future, https://www.meltonmuseum.org/
Even after the Hunting Act (2004) banned hunting with dogs, the tradition remains strong and some say that hunt memberships have actually increased. Hunts today are supposed to follow an artificial scent trail, rather than searching for a live animal. However, there remains plenty of controversy and some say that foxes are still being killed. The arguments on both sides are both interesting and persuasive. I'll put some links here, in case you want to read more.
As I said, I'm not here to judge so let's move on to a subject which unites us all... foood!
Here are two recipes to keep a hungry hunter satisfied...
Leicestershire Hunting Pudding
This dish was created as a welcome treat for huntsmen after a long day on horseback. When I made it, it cheered up a cool, wet July day which actually felt more like Winter! This version comes from Paul Hollywood's excellent book, 'British Baking', and is like a lighter version of Christmas pudding.
Ingredients
100g self-raising flour
100g suet
100g light muscovado sugar
1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
200g sultanas
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 tbsp brandy (I used rum as this was all I had)
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
Method
1. Butter 4 dariole moulds or mini pudding basins. Line bases with baking parchment. (I didn't have any small basins, so used a 1 litre pudding bowl).
2. Place flour, suet, sugar and nutmeg into a bowl.
Stir to combine, then mix in sultanas. Then add lemon zest and juice, brandy (or rum) and beaten eggs. Stir gently to create a stiff mixture.
3. Divide mixture between the moulds - or tip all into your l litre basin. Tap bowl(s) gently on the worktop, to eliminate any air bubbles.
4 Make a lid for each pudding, by cutting a square of baking parchment and a square of tin foil - then laying them on top (I buy parchment backed foil to make it easier).
5. Now, to tie your pudding - I've always got into a pickle trying to do this job. All the instructions I've read have suggested tying string round like a parcel, bringing it up to form a handle. I could never quite manage it - the string slipped everywhere and the 'handle' was never strong enough to use. On this occasion, I looked for a YouTube tutorial to help me, and found this very short video which changed everything. Just tie some string around the outside and off you go! https://www.olivemagazine.com/guides/how-to/quick-video-how-to-cover-a-pudding-for-steaming/
6. Stand your moulds in a large pan (I use a jam preserving pan). Pour in enough water to come about 3/4 of the way up the side of the moulds. Cover the pan, and heat gently for about 45 minutes (for small puddings) or 3 hours (for 1 large one). Don't forget to put the lid on, or your tops won't cook!
7. Carefully remove the pudding(s) from the water, then run a sharp knife around the outside and turn on onto individual plates or 1 large serving plate.
Serve warm, with plenty of custard.
Yum, the sort of warming Winter pud that us Brits do best!
Melton Hunt Cake
My research has shown that almost every region of Britain has its own fruit cake, from Wiltshire/Gloucestershire Lardy Cake, to Welsh Bara Brith; Irish Tea Brack; Scottish Black Bun and many more. This recipe was created by John Dickinson in 1854, and is still available at his shop, 'Dickinson and Morris' in Melton Mowbray. https://www.porkpie.co.uk/the-original-melton-hunt-cake.htm. Their website describes it as 'the original fruit cake against which all others are judged' - of course! I would describe as it similar to a Scottish Dundee Cake, with its cherry and nut topping.
Tradition was that hunt members would enjoy a piece with a glass of sherry while awaiting the start of the hunt. You can pick one up for £10.99 at the shop, but of course you want to make your own, so here goes. I'm grateful to the food blog 'JibberJabberUK' for this version of the recipe.
Ingredients
8oz (225g) plain flour, sifted
8oz butter
8oz (225g) dark muscovado sugar
Zest of 1 lemon
4 eggs
10 1/2 oz (300g) dried mixed fruit. Include cranberries if you want to give your cake some 'zip'.
3 1/2 oz (100g) glace cherries, halved; washed and dried
3 1/2oz (100g) flaked almonds
3 tbsp (45ml) dark rum
For topping - 5 halved glace cherries, 8 whole blanched almonds
Method
1. Pre-heat oven to 150C/GM2
2. Soak your fruit in the rum while you begin to prepare the mixture.
2. Cream together butter, sugar and lemon zest until light and fluffy
3. Beat in the eggs very gradually (about a tbsp at a time), mixing well between additions.
4. Fold in the flour with a metal spoon, then add dried fruit and almonds.
5. Pour mixture into the tin, and smooth the top.
6. Arrange the remaining cherries and almonds on top.
7. Bake for 45 minutes, then lower heat to 140C/GM1.
8. Bake for a further 1 hour 45 minutes, until a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. If the top looks as if it may be browning too quickly, cover with a layer of baking parchment for the remaining time.
9. When cooked, remove from the oven and allow to cool in the tin.
Here's the result - it makes a moist, juicy fruit cake and could be made as a lighter alternative to Christmas cake. We enjoyed it with a summer beach picnic.
So that's it - hope you've enjoyed this insight into a Leicestershire tradition. Next time I'm going to tackle the most iconic hunt food of all - the pork pie. See you soon!
